Ok, for anyone who's never been to the Zurich airport- check your flight times and get there early! Spoiled American that I am, I arrived at the airport believing that there would be flights to London just waiting to be picked like fruit on a tree. I marched up to the ticket counter with Mastercard in hand and asked for the next flight. It was expensive so Janos pulled me aside to counsel me (he is an attorney) and by the time (5 minutes) I had convinced him of my resolve, check-in for the flight was closed. Grrr... Fine. Next flight, please. This is where I get steamed. It was 20.00- early by any standards and the next flight to London? 7.15!! So, what to do for the next 11 hours? It's an airport right? There should be shops, bars, etc. Everything was closed and at 20.30, the lights go dim and the muzak starts. Madness!! We poor flightless folks made a little refugee camp with Starbucks cushions and hit the vending machines for water. I made a friend by bonding over the non-functioning pay phones so we smoked and ate these delightful little cardamom cakes that he had together. But enough about the airport- back to the adventure!